Hot food and a cool scene add up to one of Paris’s most talked-about addresses
What’s the appeal? This is a cool space in a cool street run by cool people with lots of cool customers. It also just happens to be the winner of this year’s Sustainable Restaurant Award, sponsored by Silestone.
But what of the food? Dip a fork into the menu on any given day and you’ll quickly discover that the food more than holds its own. Turbot is paired with Brussels sprouts, bacon and a sauce of mushrooms from Paris. The texture of new-season white asparagus is played off against oysters, hazelnuts and clotted cream. Oh, and there’s a sorbet of cheese flavoured with bay and teamed with an apple and pear purée.
What of the chef: Owner-chef Bertrand Grebaut is far from the only boldface-named Paris chef to graduate from the kitchens of Alain Passard’s landmark restaurant Arpège, but in a few short years he has quickly come to be recognised among such luminaries as L’Astrance’s Pascal Barbot as the future of French cooking.
What else: Grebaut and his team have colonised the neighbourhood with well-pitched brand extensions: the seafood-focused Clamato (possibly the best bet for the ever-tricky Saturday lunch slot in Paris) and the tiny, brilliant wine bar Septime La Cave.