• The World's 50 Best Restaurants
No.25

Cosme

New York, USA

No.25

Fresh Mexican cuisine from one of the hottest young chefs in the US

Reasons to visit Cosme: Even before former US President Barack Obama had the good sense to add it to his dining list, Cosme was already one of the hippest places to eat in New York City. With a buzzing but relaxed vibe and exquisite food and service, it is as much a special occasion restaurant as a place to visit time and time again.

Modern Mexican: Founded by Mexican chef Enrique Olvera and his business partners Santiago Perez and Santiago Gomez, Cosme has been run by young cook Daniela Soto-Innes since soon after it opened in 2014. While the menu takes some inspiration from Olvera’s flagship Pujol in Mexico City, many of the dishes were created by Soto-Innes, including her signature duck carnitas and must-try corn husk meringue dessert.

A mezcal for every occasion: It wouldn’t be a product of Olvera if it didn’t serve mezcal, so of course there’s a bar and bar area with an extensive mezcal menu and a fun vibe.

Girl power: Soto-Innes prides herself on having a kitchen staff that is 50% female, 50% male, with a mix of nationalities from all over the US, Latin America and beyond. She champions women, including her sous chef and pastry chef, and runs a relaxed kitchen, often with music, dancing and pre-service warm-up exercises. The chef won a James Beard Rising Star Award in 2016 at age 25.

Other ventures: Olvera and Soto-Innes opened more casual Mexican restaurant Atla in New York in 2017. They’re currently working on a restaurant based on Cosme and Pujol in Los Angeles.

Images: Kelt T

On the pass

  • Daniela Soto-Innes

Pastry chef

  • Isabel Coss

Style of food

  • Modern Mexican

Standout dish

  • Cobia al pastor: tataki of cobia with pastor adobo and pineapple puree

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