A taste of the surreal via the Basque country in the heart of Mexico City
What’s the story? Biko is all about ‘techno emotional’ cooking – a term commonly associated with Spain and the progressive cuisine of chefs such as Ferran Adrià – the stuff most diners familiar with the style used to call molecular gastronomy.
What’s the Spanish connection? The restaurant has been described as a flavoursome collision between Spain and Mexico, with local ingredients and traditional Basque ideas mingling with more contemporary thinking that some members of the kitchen picked up working at El Bulli.
What does that mean on the plate? It depends which menu you choose – there’s the regular degustation, but there’s also “lo de hoy” and “lo de antes”, roughly speaking a menu for now, and a menu from before. The former is more focused on the Basque country, the latter more Adrià-eque in its aesthetic.
Some examples: Sometimes it’ll be a traditional combination of ingredients but arranged with a modern European sensibility – Mexico’s chile en nogada rendered as a hunk of roasted venison sauced with peanuts and pomegranate, say. At other times it’s more freewheeling: foie gras meeting pineapple and pineapple vinegar, or a texturally seductive combination of foamed cauliflower and artichokes.